Difference between revisions of "Stedman - Quick or Slow"

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Here are a few tips for knowing how to go in quick or slow in [[Stedman]] on all [[stage]]s.
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=Quick or Slow?  The Definitive Guide by Simon Linford=
  
==Remembering==
+
Knowing whether to go in Quick or Slow is pretty important in Stedman, and how to work it out is one of the more common questions asked. Some time ago during a peal of Stedman Cinques, my wandering mind started to analyse how I was deciding whether to go in Quick or Slow, and then how many different ways there were of working it out. I could think of eight at the time, and seemed to be using four of them myself, and I thought “there’s an article here”. 
  
More Stedman is lost through errors on the front than anywhere else - which just proves how vital it is to know exactly what is going on! Only 2 or 3 changes can throw a whole touch - but someone fluffing through Cambridge places the wrong way can be accommodated for most of a lead, giving time for the stray to be brought back onto the line. (Who remembers Wilfrid Wilson's habit of messing up Stedman just so he could put it right again?!)
+
So here it is a “cut out and keep” guide. You will note that some of the methods are not really recommended ...
  
So, it is best to know whether you are going in quick or slow, by remembering which way you came out, and go in opposite way, unless you were dodging behind at an odd number of bobs.
+
==1. Monkey Method==
  
==The foot method==
+
'''Rule:''' Guess. Or always go in the same way. 
  
If your right foot is in front of your left, go in quick; don't forget to change your feet over when you leave the front and every time you are caught by a bob at the back.
+
'''Usage:''' Too high.
  
==The 4-5 rule==
+
'''Pros:''' Needs little thought. You will be right half the time.
  
When arriving in 4-5 down, the very first blow in 4ths is after the bell that you will take off lead when you get to the front. If there's a bit of a mess that row, you might confirm who it was because you will strike over the other 2 bells in the frontwork once each before meeting that bell again. If you first blow in thirds is over the same bell, make thirds and go in slow, otherwise go in quick.
+
'''Cons:''' You will be wrong half the time. Annoys the conductor.
  
==The just-in-time rule==
+
==2. Going in Medium==  
  
This relies on your good rope handling, and the bells on the front being spot on. It should only really be used as a last resort!
+
'''Rule:''' Go in Quickish, and if you hit someone in 2nds place, amend the strategy and go in Slow instead. Or go in Slowish and if there is a gap, yank in the backstroke quickly.
  
On leaving 4-5 down and striking your first blow in thirds, follow one bell then the other below you. Are you now in seconds place? Then you are quick bell. If not, you made a second blow in thirds, and commence your slow work. This works because the two bells below you either part to let you through if it is a quick six, or swap if it is a slow six.
+
'''Usage:''' Widespread
  
==Watch your course bell==
+
'''Pros:''' Works, after a fashion.
  
When dodging up at the back you are with your course bell. Follow them down to the front and go in the opposite way to them. If there is a bob while you are dodging down, then your course bell will be the one making the last bob under you.
+
'''Cons:''' You will not make any friends.
  
==Helping others go in the right way==
+
==3. Thin Ice Method==  
  
If you have just come off the front, it is worth knowing that the bell that you dodge with in 4-5 should go in the same way as you came out, so you can remind your dodging partner if he/she seems to have gone in the wrong way. Conversely, if you are unsure coming down into 4-5, ask the bell you dodge with which way they came out, and go in the same way.
+
'''Rule:''' Finish your 4-5 dodges down, still oblivious as to how you are going in. When you put your handstroke in 3rds place, watch the person who is doing a handstroke lead.  If that person starts to look up as they pull their handstroke, or if they pull the handstroke with the amount of effort that looks like they are going up, then they are going to put their backstroke in 2nds place, which means it is a Slow six, so you make thirds and go in Slow. If the person leading doesn’t look up, then they are going to lead full, which means it is a Quick six, so you need to get your backstroke in sharpish and lead after them, i.e. in Quick. Alternatively if you find it easier to see the bell that is in 2nds place, if they look up as they pull their handstroke then they are wanting to pass you at backstroke so you are going in Quick. If they don’t look up at you it is because they are going to lead at backstroke, and that means you are going in Slow.  
  
==Watch the leading==
+
'''Usage:''' Personally I use this about half the time, especially if ringing a light bell. I suspect it is widespread amongst the lazy.
  
Stedman frontwork is rung in groups of six changes. Alternate groups are rung 'slow' and 'quick'. In slow sixes the bells lead wrong (ie. Back then Hand) and in quick sixes they lead right i.e. hand then back. When dodging 4/5 Down note which way the bells on the front are leading. If they are leading wrong it is slow six and the next six will be a quick, so you go in quick. If they are leading right it is quick six and the next six will be a slow, so you go in slow.
+
'''Pros:''' Doesn’t need any advance thought and hence very efficient on brain usage.
  
==Hear the leading==
+
'''Cons:''' Risky if the bells on the front get it wrong. In very fast Triples it becomes a split second decision. More difficult the heavier your bell. Not really to be recommended.
 +
 +
==4. Eleanor’s Variation of the Thin Ice Method (Ed. aka the Just-In-Time rule)==  
  
A variation on "Watching the leading" is to listen.  As you arrive in 7-6 if the same bell is doing the hand/back lead then it is a quick six which means you are quick bell.  If in 5-4 the same bell is doing the hand/back lead then it is again a quick six which means you are slow bell.
+
'''Rule:''' Very like 3 above, except that when you put your handstroke in 3rds place over one of the bells below you, your backstroke just needs to be over the other one.  
  
==Alternate the sixes==
+
'''Usage:''' When I was first told this one I couldn’t believe anyone did it, but have since found many users, and started doing it myself.
  
If you constantly say to yourself quick and slow every time you change dodging positions, and learn where the six ends are in the slow, you will know not only whether you should be going in quick or slow, but everybody else too. This is excellent practice for conducting, and you will be able to spot whether others have gone in the wrong way, and help them out.
+
'''Pros:''' Works provided the bells on the front are right.
  
==All of the above==
+
'''Cons:''' Doesn’t work that well in my experience. Very difficult if you are ringing a heavy bell, which means you end up ‘Going in Medium’ all the time.
  
Like any tips, the more you know and put into practice, the more reliable a ringer you will be.
+
==5. Diary Method (Ed. aka the 4-5 rule)==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' As you get into 4-5 down, you remember who your first backstroke is over. Then once you’ve finished your 4-5 dodges, if your next handstroke, i.e. in 3rds place, is over that bell then you go in Slow, and if it isn’t, then you go in Quick.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Very common. Most used explanation when anyone asks.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Easy to do in practice. Get someone to stand behind you first time and show you because it is easier than it sounds.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Doesn’t help you if the bells on the front have gone wrong.
 +
 
 +
(Note that you don’t really need to watch who your first backstroke is over. You can do it with the second two backstrokes and then the bell you watch for next is the one of the three below you that you missed.)
 +
 
 +
==6. Course Bell Method ==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Follow your course bell down from the back, and watch which way they go in. (Your course bell is the one you dodge up with before you turn round, and who then leaves the back before you do.) Go in the opposite way. If you can’t see which way they go in then you can use the rule that if your first backstroke in 4-5 down is not over your course bell then you go in Slow because they went in Quick. If your first backstroke in 4-5 down is over your course bell, then they have clearly made thirds, hence are going in Slow, and you go in Quick.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' This is a cleverer method and is more likely to be used on higher numbers when you can watch your course bell for longer.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Generates more awareness of course bells.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' You may find it difficult to follow your course bell, and they may go in the wrong way anyway!
 +
 
 +
==7. Watch or Listen Method==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Watch or listen to the bells on the front when you are in 4-5 down. If they are hunting wrong, or if the bells are leading right (which is easier to hear), go in Slow. If the bells leading are swapping at backstroke, go in Quick. You can watch as well as listen to make it easier. Or just watch if you can’t hear.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Widespread in the Black Zone.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Doesn’t need much thought. Foolproof if ringing is good.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Advanced ropesight or listening skills required.
 +
 
 +
==8. Alternate Quick/Slow Method (Ed. aka Remembering)==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Go in the opposite way to which you last came out, unless there are an odd number of Bobs when you are at the back. Note this does not work in Doubles – if you are affected by a single in 4-5 you go back in the same way.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Widespread, especially in Triples. Many easier compositions of Triples have pairs of Bobs, which means you will always go in the opposite way to the way you came out.
 +
 +
'''Pros:''' Foolproof. You only have yourself to blame if this one goes wrong.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Not so good on higher numbers because you have to remember which way you came out for longer (unless you are on one of the boring back bells and are ringing the same position for half an hour).
 +
 
 +
==9. Dancing Feet Method==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Mentally label your feet ‘Quick’ and ‘Slow’. When you leave the front, jump on the spot so your other foot is forward. If you are affected by a bob at the back, do another little jump to swap your feet. When you are in 4-5 down, look down at feet and note whether Quick or Slow foot is forward. Go in that way.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' This is more common than you might think, including some experienced ringers. 
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Foolproof if you do it properly.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' If you have that bad a memory you may forget which foot is which, and you might forget to do the shuffle. Looks a bit silly.
 +
 
 +
==10. Conductor’s Method (Ed. aka Alternate the Sixes)==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Know whether you are ringing a Quick or Slow six because you know what six you are in and you know whether it is Quick or Slow by experience.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Assumed.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Foolproof if you are good.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' None.
 +
 
 +
==11. Ask the Conductor==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' While you are dodging 4-5 down, ask the Conductor whether you should go in Quick or Slow.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Very rare
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Works if the conductor is awake.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Annoys the conductor and isn’t really the way you should be learning to ring Stedman!
 +
 
 +
==12. Ask the other person in 4-5 (Ed. or anyone else you dodge with on the way down)==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' While you are dodging 4-5 down, ask the person you are dodging with which way they just came out, and go in the same way.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Very rare, such that I have never heard it done.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Works if the other person has the ability to speak out loud.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Even more annoying than 11. Will distract the person you ask and hence may cause them to go wrong. If you need to ask someone in an emergency, as the conductor.
 +
 
 +
(Note this was the one method that was introduced to me after this article was first published in the Ringing World.)
 +
 
 +
==13. Skywalker Method==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Turn off all thought of using any of the methods above and let the Force guide you.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Widespread amongst the Jedi.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Foolproof.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Takes a long time to learn.
 +
 
 +
==14. Cop out Method==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:''' Catch hold of Tenor.
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' There’s (almost) always one.
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Foolproof.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Limited availability of the Tenor.  May be boring.
 +
 
 +
==15. The Daisy Chain method  (not part of the original article or by its author)==
 +
 
 +
'''Rule:'''
 +
 
 +
On 7: Track the sequence of bells going in Quick starting with the treble, whoever they dodge 4-5 with is the next Quick bell etc. If they end up dodging with you, you are Quick, if not, you are slow.
 +
 
 +
On 9+ you can track the same bell further up and the same dodging rule applies. You might remember more than one bell to help understand the structure. Track bells until you know how you are going to meet them yourself. You can have a breather when you go in slow.
 +
 
 +
On 9: Track either Quick or Slow bells but stick to one or the other.
 +
 
 +
On 11+: Track slow bells.
 +
 
 +
Finally, on higher numbers, as I leave the front I remember consecutive bells about to go in slow as I pass them on my way up. I will eventually pass or dodge with these bells in the same order and spacing when I come back down. This has the same basis but is perhaps a different method??
 +
 
 +
'''Usage:''' Only me???
 +
 
 +
'''Pros:''' Totally reliable and you are both independent of other people's mistakes and can put them right knowing whether any given six is quick or slow. Easier than counting sixes, which I always miscount even when (rarely) calling touches.
 +
 
 +
'''Cons:''' Requires good ropesight and concentration! On 7 it is easily manageable. On more bells I often alternate it with other methods. E.g. having a rest for a bit then looking to see whether leading is right or wrong in any given six.
 +
 
 +
== Conclusion ==
 +
 
 +
I found that in that particular peal, the method I was using to go in Quick or Slow was entirely driven by how awake I was, and hence how early in the act of coming down from the back I started to think about it. If early, I would use the Course Bell and Watch or Listen Methods. If I was in the early stages of 4-5 down I would use the Diary Method or the Watch or Listen Method. At least half the time I would wait until the end of 4-5 down and use the Thin Ice Method.
 +
 
 +
I think that in general, using two techniques is the best way, which gives you a back-up if one fails. A combination of the Diary Method and the Alternate Quick/Slow Method is a good choice, whereas weaving in use of the Course Bell Method and the Watch or Listen Method will enhance your understanding of Stedman.
 +
 
 +
Simon Linford, 2008
 +
 
 +
==References==
 +
* [https://bb.ringingworld.co.uk/issues/2009/101 ''The Ringing World''], No 5097, 2 January 2009, pg 101.
  
 
[[Stedman]]<br />
 
[[Stedman]]<br />
 
[[Conducting Stedman]]
 
[[Conducting Stedman]]

Latest revision as of 21:55, 22 October 2024


Quick or Slow? The Definitive Guide by Simon Linford

Knowing whether to go in Quick or Slow is pretty important in Stedman, and how to work it out is one of the more common questions asked. Some time ago during a peal of Stedman Cinques, my wandering mind started to analyse how I was deciding whether to go in Quick or Slow, and then how many different ways there were of working it out. I could think of eight at the time, and seemed to be using four of them myself, and I thought “there’s an article here”.

So here it is – a “cut out and keep” guide. You will note that some of the methods are not really recommended ...

1. Monkey Method

Rule: Guess. Or always go in the same way.

Usage: Too high.

Pros: Needs little thought. You will be right half the time.

Cons: You will be wrong half the time. Annoys the conductor.

2. Going in Medium

Rule: Go in Quickish, and if you hit someone in 2nds place, amend the strategy and go in Slow instead. Or go in Slowish and if there is a gap, yank in the backstroke quickly.

Usage: Widespread

Pros: Works, after a fashion.

Cons: You will not make any friends.

3. Thin Ice Method

Rule: Finish your 4-5 dodges down, still oblivious as to how you are going in. When you put your handstroke in 3rds place, watch the person who is doing a handstroke lead. If that person starts to look up as they pull their handstroke, or if they pull the handstroke with the amount of effort that looks like they are going up, then they are going to put their backstroke in 2nds place, which means it is a Slow six, so you make thirds and go in Slow. If the person leading doesn’t look up, then they are going to lead full, which means it is a Quick six, so you need to get your backstroke in sharpish and lead after them, i.e. in Quick. Alternatively if you find it easier to see the bell that is in 2nds place, if they look up as they pull their handstroke then they are wanting to pass you at backstroke so you are going in Quick. If they don’t look up at you it is because they are going to lead at backstroke, and that means you are going in Slow.

Usage: Personally I use this about half the time, especially if ringing a light bell. I suspect it is widespread amongst the lazy.

Pros: Doesn’t need any advance thought and hence very efficient on brain usage.

Cons: Risky if the bells on the front get it wrong. In very fast Triples it becomes a split second decision. More difficult the heavier your bell. Not really to be recommended.

4. Eleanor’s Variation of the Thin Ice Method (Ed. aka the Just-In-Time rule)

Rule: Very like 3 above, except that when you put your handstroke in 3rds place over one of the bells below you, your backstroke just needs to be over the other one.

Usage: When I was first told this one I couldn’t believe anyone did it, but have since found many users, and started doing it myself.

Pros: Works provided the bells on the front are right.

Cons: Doesn’t work that well in my experience. Very difficult if you are ringing a heavy bell, which means you end up ‘Going in Medium’ all the time.

5. Diary Method (Ed. aka the 4-5 rule)

Rule: As you get into 4-5 down, you remember who your first backstroke is over. Then once you’ve finished your 4-5 dodges, if your next handstroke, i.e. in 3rds place, is over that bell then you go in Slow, and if it isn’t, then you go in Quick.

Usage: Very common. Most used explanation when anyone asks.

Pros: Easy to do in practice. Get someone to stand behind you first time and show you because it is easier than it sounds.

Cons: Doesn’t help you if the bells on the front have gone wrong.

(Note that you don’t really need to watch who your first backstroke is over. You can do it with the second two backstrokes and then the bell you watch for next is the one of the three below you that you missed.)

6. Course Bell Method

Rule: Follow your course bell down from the back, and watch which way they go in. (Your course bell is the one you dodge up with before you turn round, and who then leaves the back before you do.) Go in the opposite way. If you can’t see which way they go in then you can use the rule that if your first backstroke in 4-5 down is not over your course bell then you go in Slow because they went in Quick. If your first backstroke in 4-5 down is over your course bell, then they have clearly made thirds, hence are going in Slow, and you go in Quick.

Usage: This is a cleverer method and is more likely to be used on higher numbers when you can watch your course bell for longer.

Pros: Generates more awareness of course bells.

Cons: You may find it difficult to follow your course bell, and they may go in the wrong way anyway!

7. Watch or Listen Method

Rule: Watch or listen to the bells on the front when you are in 4-5 down. If they are hunting wrong, or if the bells are leading right (which is easier to hear), go in Slow. If the bells leading are swapping at backstroke, go in Quick. You can watch as well as listen to make it easier. Or just watch if you can’t hear.

Usage: Widespread in the Black Zone.

Pros: Doesn’t need much thought. Foolproof if ringing is good.

Cons: Advanced ropesight or listening skills required.

8. Alternate Quick/Slow Method (Ed. aka Remembering)

Rule: Go in the opposite way to which you last came out, unless there are an odd number of Bobs when you are at the back. Note this does not work in Doubles – if you are affected by a single in 4-5 you go back in the same way.

Usage: Widespread, especially in Triples. Many easier compositions of Triples have pairs of Bobs, which means you will always go in the opposite way to the way you came out.

Pros: Foolproof. You only have yourself to blame if this one goes wrong.

Cons: Not so good on higher numbers because you have to remember which way you came out for longer (unless you are on one of the boring back bells and are ringing the same position for half an hour).

9. Dancing Feet Method

Rule: Mentally label your feet ‘Quick’ and ‘Slow’. When you leave the front, jump on the spot so your other foot is forward. If you are affected by a bob at the back, do another little jump to swap your feet. When you are in 4-5 down, look down at feet and note whether Quick or Slow foot is forward. Go in that way.

Usage: This is more common than you might think, including some experienced ringers.

Pros: Foolproof if you do it properly.

Cons: If you have that bad a memory you may forget which foot is which, and you might forget to do the shuffle. Looks a bit silly.

10. Conductor’s Method (Ed. aka Alternate the Sixes)

Rule: Know whether you are ringing a Quick or Slow six because you know what six you are in and you know whether it is Quick or Slow by experience.

Usage: Assumed.

Pros: Foolproof if you are good.

Cons: None.

11. Ask the Conductor

Rule: While you are dodging 4-5 down, ask the Conductor whether you should go in Quick or Slow.

Usage: Very rare

Pros: Works if the conductor is awake.

Cons: Annoys the conductor and isn’t really the way you should be learning to ring Stedman!

12. Ask the other person in 4-5 (Ed. or anyone else you dodge with on the way down)

Rule: While you are dodging 4-5 down, ask the person you are dodging with which way they just came out, and go in the same way.

Usage: Very rare, such that I have never heard it done.

Pros: Works if the other person has the ability to speak out loud.

Cons: Even more annoying than 11. Will distract the person you ask and hence may cause them to go wrong. If you need to ask someone in an emergency, as the conductor.

(Note this was the one method that was introduced to me after this article was first published in the Ringing World.)

13. Skywalker Method

Rule: Turn off all thought of using any of the methods above and let the Force guide you.

Usage: Widespread amongst the Jedi.

Pros: Foolproof.

Cons: Takes a long time to learn.

14. Cop out Method

Rule: Catch hold of Tenor.

Usage: There’s (almost) always one.

Pros: Foolproof.

Cons: Limited availability of the Tenor. May be boring.

15. The Daisy Chain method (not part of the original article or by its author)

Rule:

On 7: Track the sequence of bells going in Quick starting with the treble, whoever they dodge 4-5 with is the next Quick bell etc. If they end up dodging with you, you are Quick, if not, you are slow.

On 9+ you can track the same bell further up and the same dodging rule applies. You might remember more than one bell to help understand the structure. Track bells until you know how you are going to meet them yourself. You can have a breather when you go in slow.

On 9: Track either Quick or Slow bells but stick to one or the other.

On 11+: Track slow bells.

Finally, on higher numbers, as I leave the front I remember consecutive bells about to go in slow as I pass them on my way up. I will eventually pass or dodge with these bells in the same order and spacing when I come back down. This has the same basis but is perhaps a different method??

Usage: Only me???

Pros: Totally reliable and you are both independent of other people's mistakes and can put them right knowing whether any given six is quick or slow. Easier than counting sixes, which I always miscount even when (rarely) calling touches.

Cons: Requires good ropesight and concentration! On 7 it is easily manageable. On more bells I often alternate it with other methods. E.g. having a rest for a bit then looking to see whether leading is right or wrong in any given six.

Conclusion

I found that in that particular peal, the method I was using to go in Quick or Slow was entirely driven by how awake I was, and hence how early in the act of coming down from the back I started to think about it. If early, I would use the Course Bell and Watch or Listen Methods. If I was in the early stages of 4-5 down I would use the Diary Method or the Watch or Listen Method. At least half the time I would wait until the end of 4-5 down and use the Thin Ice Method.

I think that in general, using two techniques is the best way, which gives you a back-up if one fails. A combination of the Diary Method and the Alternate Quick/Slow Method is a good choice, whereas weaving in use of the Course Bell Method and the Watch or Listen Method will enhance your understanding of Stedman.

Simon Linford, 2008

References

Stedman
Conducting Stedman