https://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Adamsc&feedformat=atomChangeringing Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]2024-03-19T05:41:22ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.34.0https://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Wedding_Fees&diff=1916Wedding Fees2015-01-13T15:29:05Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>A frequently asked question on the [[Change Ringers]] email list over the years has been - "How much do other towers charge for ringing at weddings?". This table has been compiled to record this information, and other towers are encouraged to add to it. In considering what is reasonable readers may wish to search for "average wedding costs" in google or similar. For instance in 2008 [http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2099898/Wedding-costs-soar-to-more-than-and16320,000.html The Telegraph] was reporting an average of £20,000, though this was pre-credit crunch.<br />
<br />
At most towers, ringers tend to be paid from around £10 to £20, but it can be significantly more for some towers in London! Some towers also include a donation to the Bell Fund as well as their ringing so they may be higher than the rope fee times the number of Bells. If a tower has a separate tower fund it is a good idea to include a donation to the fund as you can get money to have an inspection on your bells every year.<br />
<br />
At most towers, if they say both or after, they may also be able to just do before.<br />
<br />
===NOTES:===<br />
* At Chesterton, ringers get £10 each on Saturdays and £12 on weekdays. Ringer-up gets a fiver.<br />
* At Harwich, local ringers tend not to take their money, although it is always offered. Visiting ringers are paid £10.<br />
* At Rainhill, St Bart's has a reduced fee, approx 60%, for before or after. Flat rate for weekdays is £150 (£20 per rope).<br />
* At Whitchurch, the Ringers Charge £2 extra per rope for Before and After.<br />
* At Warfield, 8 bells are usually rung, but maybe only 6 if short of people. <br />
* At Churchdown, £60 from the fee goes to the tower fund, the fee for weekday weddings is £200 of which £80 goes to the tower fund.<br />
* At St Clement Danes, the fees are £40 per ringer. With a choice of 6, 8 or ten. Fees are doubled if before and after is required. There is a fee of £40 paid for ringing the bells up before the service if ringing out is required. There is a fee of £40 for arranging the band. And the church gets a fee of £40. The new fees haven't meant a loss of requests for bells.<br />
* At Clerkenwell there is a choice of 6 or 8. £30 per ringer. Fees doubled if ringing in and out is required. Double fee for the ringer ringing up the bells. Plus a tower fee of £30.<br />
St Barnabas, Pimlico, London. £30 per ringer plus £30 for ringing up the bells before the service. £30 tower fee.<br />
* At Hemel Hempstead there is a 50% surcharge for weekday weddings <br />
[[Category: Articles]]<br />
<br />
==List by Tower==<br />
{| style="color:blue;background-color:#ffffdd;" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" border="1"<br />
! Tower || When ringing ||Rope Fee (£)||Total Fee (£)||Bells || Price from:<br />
|-<br />
|Abbots Langley, Herts||before & after||18||112||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Albury, Herts||after only||15||125||6||28/02/2014<br />
|-<br />
|Aldbury, Herts||after only||15||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Aldenham, Herts||after only||15||150||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Aldridge, St Mary, West Mids||after only||12||100||6||2007<br />
|-<br />
|Alfriston, St Andrew, Sussex,||after only||8||50||6||27/08/2007<br />
|-<br />
|Anstey, Herts||after only||10||70||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Apsley, Herts||after only||15||150||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Ardley, Herts||after only||12.50||75||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Ashwell, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Aspenden, Herts||after only||10||||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Aston Tirrold, Oxon, S Michael||||15||90||6||01/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Aston, Herts||after only||15||140||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Baldock, Herts||after only||12||110||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Barkway, Herts||after only||15||130||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Barley, Herts||after only||10||80||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Barrowby, Lincs.||after only||||105||6||01/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Barrow-upon-Humber, N Lincs.||after only||5||60||8||11/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Beckenham, Kent, St George||Before & after||15||||6-10||09/08/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Benington, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Berkhamsted, Herts||after only||15||150||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Birmingham, St Paul 6 bells||before & after||30||220||6||10/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Birmingham, St Paul 6 bells||before or after||20||160||6||10/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Birmingham, St Paul 8 bells||before & after||30||280||8||10/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Birmingham, St Paul 8 bells||before or after||20||200||8||10/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Bishops Stortford, Herts||before & after||15||120||10/8/6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Bishopstoke, Hants, St Mary||after only||12||120||8||01/01/2009<br />
|-<br />
|Blewbury, Oxon, S Michael & All Angels||||15||120||8||01/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Boston, Massachusetts, Christ Church||||||130||5-8||25/09/2005<br />
|-<br />
|Brailsford, Derbyshire||after only||15||90||6||2007<br />
|-<br />
|Brailsford, Derbyshire||before & after||20||120||6||2007<br />
|-<br />
|Brampton, Cambridgeshire||after only||10||80||6||01/01/2007<br />
|-<br />
|Braughing, Herts||after only||10||80||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Broughton, N Lincs||after only||9||54||6||11/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Broughton, Staffs||before or after||10||80||8||13/01/2015<br />
|-<br />
|Bushey Heath, Herts||after only||15||150||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Bushey, Herts||after only||20||220||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Cambridge, Cambs, Gt St Mary||per session||15||200||6-12||05/04/2009<br />
|-<br />
|Charlton Kings, Glos, St Mary||after only||10||90||8||05/06/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Cheltenham, St Mark||after only||10||100||6-8||01/03/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Cherry Hinton, Cambs||after only||10||100||6||01/03/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Chesterfield, Derbys, St Mary & All Ss||any||25||250||6-10||01/01/2009<br />
|-<br />
|Chesterton, Cambs, St Andrew||before & after||20||150||6||08/05/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Chesterton, Cambs, St Andrew*||after only||10||100||6||17/02/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Churchdown, Gloucestershire*||before & after||15||150||6||01/08/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Clenchwarton, Norfolk||before & after||15||100||5||07/06/2011<br />
|-<br />
|Clerkenwell*||before after/both||25/50||250/475||6-8||11/01/2009<br />
|-<br />
|Codicote, Herts||after only||15||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Combe, Oxon, S Laurence||after only||15||||6||14/04/2012<br />
|-<br />
|Cottered, Herts||after only||20||100||5||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Datchworth, Herts||after only||12||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|East Hagbourne, Oxon, S Andrew||after only||15||120||8||01/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|East Meon||after only||10||120||8||01/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Eccleshall, Staffs||before & after||20||190||8||13/01/2015<br />
|-<br />
|Eccleshall, Staffs||before or after||10||95||8||13/01/2015<br />
|-<br />
|Edgbaston, Birmingham||||25||250||8||24/11/2005<br />
|-<br />
|Elstree, Herts||after only||15||105||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Essendon, Herts||after only||12||100||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Finedon, Northants||after only||10||80||8||2008<br />
|-<br />
|Furneux Pelham, Herts||after only||15||90||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Graveley, Herts||after only||15||110||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Great Amwell, Herts||after only||15||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Great Gaddesden, Herts||before & after||15||150||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Great Horwood, Bucks. St James||both or after||10||60||6||17/11/2007<br />
|-<br />
|Great Offley, Herts||after only||10||60||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Great Stanmore, Herts||after only||20||130||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Great Wymondley, Herts||after only||17/20||150||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Harpenden, Herts||after only||16||150||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Harwich, Essex*||||10||100||6||14/08/2007<br />
|-<br />
|Hatfield, Herts||after only||20/15||150||10/8/6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Hemel Hempstead , Herts||after only||12.50/15/20/25||130||6/8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Hertford, Herts||after only||15||100||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Hinxworth, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Histon, St Andrew, Cambs||after only||10||120||8||2013<br />
|-<br />
|Hitchin, Herts||after only||18/12||100||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Hunsdon, Herts||after only||10||||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Kensington,St Mary Abbots||both or after||40/80||400/800||10||2008<br />
|-<br />
|Kimpton, Herts||after only||13||100||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Kings Langley, Herts||after only||9||100||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Knebworth, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Langleybury, Herts||after only||15||110||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Lilley, Herts||after only||10||80||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Linton, Cambs||after only||||70||6||2011<br />
|-<br />
|Little Gaddesden, Herts||after only||15/20||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Little Hadham, Herts||after only||15||125||6||28/02/2014<br />
|-<br />
|Little Munden, Herts||after only||15||90||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Little Wymondley, Herts||after only||17/20||150||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Liverpool, Merseyside, Pier Head||after only||20||160||6||17/04/2010<br />
|-<br />
|Liverpool, Merseyside, Tuebrook||||15||90||6||03/09/2005<br />
|-<br />
|Llanfrechfa, Gwent, All Saints||||5||50||6-8||11/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Llantarnam, Gwent, St Michael & All Angels||||6||40||6||11/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Melbourne, Derbys, SS Michael & Mary||||10||100||8||03/09/2005<br />
|-<br />
|Much Hadham, Herts, St Andrew||before||15||125||8||28/02/2014<br />
|-<br />
|Newcastle, Jesmond,||before & after||10||80||8||20/09/2007<br />
|-<br />
|North Marston, Bucks. Assumption B.V.M||both or after||10||70||6||14/04/2009<br />
|-<br />
|North Moreton, Oxon, All Saints||||15||75||5||01/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Northchurch, Herts||before & after||17||190||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Norton, Herts||after only||13||-||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Oaks-in-Charnwood, Leics, St James||after only||10||100||8||18/06/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Oswestry, Shropshire, St Oswald||after only||10||||8||10/02/2011<br />
|-<br />
|Pirton, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Puttenham, Herts||before & after||40||120||3||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Quainton, Bucks. Holy Cross and St. Mary||both or after||10||100||6-8||14/04/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Rainhill, Merseyside, St Bart's *||both or either||15||120||6||01/01/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Redbourn, Herts||after only||15||180||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Rickmansworth, Herts||before & after||15||175||10||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Ridge, Herts||before & after||15||100||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Royston, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Rushden, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Sandon, Herts||after only||||||||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Sawbridgeworth, Herts||after only||17||-||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Scawby, Lincs||||10||30||3||11/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Shedfield, Hants, St John the Baptist||after only||12||120||8||2008 & 2009<br />
|-<br />
|Sheffield, Cathedral, SS Peter & Paul||before & after||20||200||8-12||06/06/2011<br />
|-<br />
|Sheffield, Hallam Cathedral, St Marie(RC)||after||10||100||8||06/06/2011<br />
|-<br />
|South Mimms, Herts||before & after||15||100||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|St Ippolyts, Herts||after only||17/20||150||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|St Michael's St Albans, Herts||after only||15||160||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|St Peter's St Albans, Herts||before & after||25||250||8/6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Staines, Surrey, St Mary / St Peter (same)||before & after||14||||8||2008<br />
|-<br />
|Staines, Surrey, St Mary / St Peter (same)||before or after||7||||8||2008<br />
|-<br />
|Standon, Herts||after only||12||90||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Stevenage, Herts||after only||15||140||6/8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Stoke-next-Guildford, Surrey, S.J.E.||||15||120||6||09/10/2006<br />
|-<br />
|Sydney, St Mary's Cathedral||both||31||310||8||01/01/2011<br />
|-<br />
|Sydney, St Philip's||both||31||260.4||8||01/01/2011<br />
|-<br />
|Tewin, Herts||after only||10||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Thrumpton, Nottingham||before & after||25||175||6||2011<br />
|-<br />
|Tring, Herts||after only||15||150||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Waddington, Lincoln||after only||6||||6||2008<br />
|-<br />
|Walkern, Herts||after only||||||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Wallington, Herts||after only||||||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Ware, Herts||after only||15||156||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Warfield, Bracknell *||after only||15||160||8||2014<br />
|-<br />
|Wargrave, Berkshire||after only||15||220||8||2012<br />
|-<br />
|Watford, Herts||after only||20||200||8 or 10||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Watton, Herts||after only||15||120||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Welwyn, Herts||after only||12||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Westmill, Herts||after only||10||||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Westminster,London,St Clement Danes||before or after/both||40/80||480/960||6-10||2011<br />
|-<br />
|Weston, Herts||after only||15||120||6||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Wheathampstead, Herts||after only||12||86||8||11/11/2013<br />
|-<br />
|Whitchurch, Bucks. St. John Evangelist||both or after*||20||120||6||23/01/2008<br />
|-<br />
|Whittington, Shropshire,||after only||10||||6||<br />
|-<br />
|Widcombe, Bath,||before & after||20||160||8||20/09/2007<br />
|-<br />
|Winslow, Bucks. St. Laurence||both or after||10||80||8||14/04/2009<br />
|-<br />
|Worcester Cathedral||||20||435||12||<br />
|-<br />
|Yelvertoft, All Saints||||10||60||6||09/10/2006<br />
|}</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=1915Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2015-01-13T15:24:42Z<p>Adamsc: Mendip Ropes Ltd added to suppliers</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
==Ordering Ropes==<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
==Polyester Top Ends==<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. [[Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes|Click here for further information]].<br />
<br />
==Changing a Rope==<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
==Adjusting a Rope==<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
==Tying off at wheel - Tip==<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
==Bell Rope Suppliers==<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
* [http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599<br />
* [http://www.avonropes.co.uk Avon Ropes]<br />
* [http://www.mendipropes.co.uk Mendip Ropemakers Ltd.] - 01460 281 022<br />
[[Category:Bells and Fittings]]</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Pre-stretched_Polyester_Ropes&diff=214Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes2008-08-10T14:23:49Z<p>Adamsc: Updated formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
Pre-stretched polyester is similar to 'Terylene' which is a commercial brand-name. It is a good material for the top end of bell ropes because:<br />
<br />
* it does not shrink in damp weather<br />
* it does not go stiff in damp weather<br />
* it is not springy when new<br />
* it lasts almost indefinitely<br />
<br />
Two manufacturers supply products which have been used in towers, Marlow and English Braids. The Marlow rope has orange and black tracers in the rope, while the one from English Braids has blue. Marlow rope has been found to be less springy and is preferred by most users.<br />
<br />
==Marlow Rope Specifications==<br />
Users of Marlow rope have suffered some confusion as the specification has changed at times. A military specification rope, with far less stretch, has similar colour markings to the sailing grade. The sailing grade rope in 10mm diameter is suitable for short ropes (up to about 8m), but displays more spring on long draughts. Upgrading to 12mm diameter is recommended in this case.<br />
<br />
The part number is important, because the MOD/navy spec rope has a different part starting with AE not AC. The AC type is the sailing rope, whereas the AE is the MOD spec version. To obtain a copy of the technical specification of this rope you will need to contact the MOD, because Marlow are not allowed to release any details of this rope without consent of the MOD, if at all. The technical specification for the AC sailing type of rope is available from Marlow in<br />
the form of a PDF file.<br />
<br />
According to to the technical branch of Marlow Ropes there is no theoretical difference between the two types in terms of their stretch characteristics. The identifiable difference between the ropes is a slight change in colour of the red/orange fleck. AC has a burnt red fleck, and AE has a distinct orange. The AE type of rope is produced to what they call 'British Standard' and is overspec'd in its load characteristics (and is a little larger in diameter), to guarantee that the rope will be consistent from reel to reel, and will not break below a certain load. The heat treatment process is also probably a lot more consistent and thorough; the details of this are apparently contained within the MOD technical specification sheet, which they are not able to release.<br />
<br />
The 10mm AC type of rope has a breaking load of over 2300kg (it could singly carry the dead weight of up to a 46cwt bell) which, in terms of its use in bell ringing, is not remotely approached.<br />
<br />
Since ringing never reaches more than 5% of the break load of the rope, and there may still be stretch (typically 1% extension which makes a huge difference) we should look at increasing the spec of the rope to either 12 or 14mm diameter so we never get above say 2% or 3% of its total break load and thus 0.5% or less stretch.<br />
<br />
==Splicing==<br />
Pre-stretched polyester rope can be short-spliced by hand and can also be machine spliced. Theoretically (because of the differing coefficients of friction) it should not be long-spliced with natural fibre rope, but there are several reports of this being achieved successfully in practice.<br />
<br />
<i>David Beacham writes:</i> I have had no trouble at all with joining polyester to flax with a conventional long splice, which you need to do if some part of the rope passes over an intermediate pulley. (If you use a short splice in this situation, you will feel the "bump" as the splice runs over the pulley.)<br />
<br />
<i>Mark Davies writes:</i> I agree with David, I've long-spliced flax to poly without problems, and the splices have lasted many years. When tucking the ends in, you can't "comb out" polyester so well as natural yarn, since the fibres don't come loose. However, you should still use the comb, and tuck in as usual as best you can. If you like, you can trim half the ends of each poly strand in order to get a neater result. On NO ACCOUNT should you heat-seal the ends of the poly strands, as this will not only look unsightly, but also cause the spliced-in natural rope to wear quickly due to friction with the sharp ends of the heated-sealed polyester. Don't even think about it!<br />
<br />
==Fitting Polyester Ropes==<br />
Remember that you do not need to have yards of "spare" rope wound around the spokes. To do so is a waste of money. About three times round would do. If you wish to have more, extend the rope by tying some old rope onto it.<br />
<br />
Natural fibre rope should always be used below the sally.<br />
<br />
==Acknowledgement==<br />
This page is based on a thread on Change-Ringers, May 2005, and summarises contributions from John Harrison, Matthew Higby and Philip Pratt.</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=213Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-10T14:22:28Z<p>Adamsc: Updated formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
==Ordering Ropes==<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
==Polyester Top Ends==<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. [[Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes|Click here for further information]].<br />
<br />
==Changing a Rope==<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
==Adjusting a Rope==<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
==Tying off at wheel - Tip==<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
==Bell Rope Suppliers==<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
* [http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=151Main Page2008-08-08T10:08:23Z<p>Adamsc: Bell Ropes link added</p>
<hr />
<div>{| cellpadding="5px" class="ringingTable" style="border: 1px ridge #3300FF;" width="100%"<br />
|- align="center" style="background: #FFFF99; font-size:x-large; line-height: 1.5em;"<br />
| '''The Changeringing Wiki'''<br />
|- style="background: #FFFFFF;"<br />
|<br />
Welcome to the '''''Changeringing Wiki''''', an online community encyclopedia for change ringers. This wiki has been created to build up an online repository of articles, a definition of technical terms, ringing hints and tips, and answers to frequently asked questions raised on the changeringing email lists. Use the links in the navigation bar on the left to browse the site. You can choose a [[Special:Random|Random page]] to look at, select articles from an alphabetical list ([[Special:Allpages|All pages]]), or use the search box.<br /><br />
<br />
Only a few articles are available at present, but it is hoped to build up the content quite quickly as the intention is to copy all the content across from [http://www.bellringers.org/ringwiki/ RingWiki] (any help with reformatting it would be greatly appreciated). Once all the content has been copied, RingWiki will be removed. New contributions here are also very welcome.<br /><br />
<br />
Look at the following for some examples of the improved presentation, noting that pages highlighted in red are still be be added. <br />
* [[Plain Bob Doubles]]<br />
* [[Method Tips]]<br />
* [[Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes|Bell Ropes]]<br />
* [[Ringing Roadshow 2005 Handbells]]<br />
* [[:Category:Terminology|Change-ringing Terminology]]<br />
|}<br />
<br><br />
{| cellpadding="5px" class="ringingTable" style="border: 1px ridge #3300FF;" width="100%"<br />
|- align="center" style="background: #CCFF99; font-size:x-large; line-height: 1.5em;"<br />
| '''Helping Develop the Wiki'''<br />
|- style="background: #FFFFFF;"<br />
|<br />
Anyone can help create and edit pages for the Wiki. Please contribute articles you have written, information collated from public sources, or write something brand new. Also, if you see any errors, or want to add to or improve any pages, please edit them so that the quality and depth of content improves over time. <br />
<br />
If you need help please see the [[Help:Contents|Help]] page for more infomation about editing pages. If you need ideas, go to [[Special:Wantedpages|Wanted Pages]] and if you would like something written, create a new page with no content.<br />
===Getting Started===<br />
* First register to become an editor by clicking the link at the top of the page to log in or create an account.<br />
* Then look at [[Help:Contents|Help]] in the navigation bar so you know what to do and how to edit.<br />
* Create or Edit any page of your choice!<br />
|}</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=150Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T10:04:55Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. [[Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes|Click here for further information]].<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
* [http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Pre-stretched_Polyester_Ropes&diff=149Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes2008-08-08T10:00:48Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
===Introduction===<br />
Pre-stretched polyester is similar to 'Terylene' which is a commercial brand-name. It is a good material for the top end of bell ropes because:<br />
<br />
* it does not shrink in damp weather<br />
* it does not go stiff in damp weather<br />
* it is not springy when new<br />
* it lasts almost indefinitely<br />
<br />
Two manufacturers supply products which have been used in towers, Marlow and English Braids. The Marlow rope has orange and black tracers in the rope, while the one from English Braids has blue. Marlow rope has been found to be less springy and is preferred by most users.<br />
<br />
===Marlow Rope Specifications===<br />
Users of Marlow rope have suffered some confusion as the specification has changed at times. A military specification rope, with far less stretch, has similar colour markings to the sailing grade. The sailing grade rope in 10mm diameter is suitable for short ropes (up to about 8m), but displays more spring on long draughts. Upgrading to 12mm diameter is recommended in this case.<br />
<br />
The part number is important, because the MOD/navy spec rope has a different part starting with AE not AC. The AC type is the sailing rope, whereas the AE is the MOD spec version. To obtain a copy of the technical specification of this rope you will need to contact the MOD, because Marlow are not allowed to release any details of this rope without consent of the MOD, if at all. The technical specification for the AC sailing type of rope is available from Marlow in<br />
the form of a PDF file.<br />
<br />
According to to the technical branch of Marlow Ropes there is no theoretical difference between the two types in terms of their stretch characteristics. The identifiable difference between the ropes is a slight change in colour of the red/orange fleck. AC has a burnt red fleck, and AE has a distinct orange. The AE type of rope is produced to what they call 'British Standard' and is overspec'd in its load characteristics (and is a little larger in diameter), to guarantee that the rope will be consistent from reel to reel, and will not break below a certain load. The heat treatment process is also probably a lot more consistent and thorough; the details of this are apparently contained within the MOD technical specification sheet, which they are not able to release.<br />
<br />
The 10mm AC type of rope has a breaking load of over 2300kg (it could singly carry the dead weight of up to a 46cwt bell) which, in terms of its use in bell ringing, is not remotely approached.<br />
<br />
Since ringing never reaches more than 5% of the break load of the rope, and there may still be stretch (typically 1% extension which makes a huge difference) we should look at increasing the spec of the rope to either 12 or 14mm diameter so we never get above say 2% or 3% of its total break load and thus 0.5% or less stretch.<br />
<br />
===Splicing===<br />
Pre-stretched polyester rope can be short-spliced by hand and can also be machine spliced. Theoretically (because of the differing coefficients of friction) it should not be long-spliced with natural fibre rope, but there are several reports of this being achieved successfully in practice.<br />
<br />
<i>David Beacham writes:</i> I have had no trouble at all with joining polyester to flax with a conventional long splice, which you need to do if some part of the rope passes over an intermediate pulley. (If you use a short splice in this situation, you will feel the "bump" as the splice runs over the pulley.)<br />
<br />
<i>Mark Davies writes:</i> I agree with David, I've long-spliced flax to poly without problems, and the splices have lasted many years. When tucking the ends in, you can't "comb out" polyester so well as natural yarn, since the fibres don't come loose. However, you should still use the comb, and tuck in as usual as best you can. If you like, you can trim half the ends of each poly strand in order to get a neater result. On NO ACCOUNT should you heat-seal the ends of the poly strands, as this will not only look unsightly, but also cause the spliced-in natural rope to wear quickly due to friction with the sharp ends of the heated-sealed polyester. Don't even think about it!<br />
<br />
===Fitting Polyester Ropes===<br />
Remember that you do not need to have yards of "spare" rope wound around the spokes. To do so is a waste of money. About three times round would do. If you wish to have more, extend the rope by tying some old rope onto it.<br />
<br />
Natural fibre rope should always be used below the sally.<br />
<br />
===Acknowledgement===<br />
This page is based on a thread on Change-Ringers, May 2005, and summarises contributions from John Harrison, Matthew Higby and Philip Pratt.</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Pre-stretched_Polyester_Ropes&diff=147Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes2008-08-08T09:47:21Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
===Introduction===<br />
Pre-stretched polyester is similar to 'Terylene' which is a commercial brand-name. It is a good material for the top end of bell ropes because:<br />
<br />
* it does not shrink in damp weather<br />
* it does not go stiff in damp weather<br />
* it is not springy when new<br />
* it lasts almost indefinitely<br />
<br />
Two manufacturers supply products which have been used in towers, Marlow and English Braids. The Marlow rope has orange and black tracers in the rope, while the one from English Braids has blue. Marlow rope has been found to be less springy and is preferred by most users.<br />
<br />
===Marlow Rope Specifications===<br />
Users of Marlow rope have suffered some confusion as the specification has changed at times. A military specification rope, with far less stretch, has similar colour markings to the sailing grade. The sailing grade rope in 10mm diameter is suitable for short ropes (up to about 8m), but displays more spring on long draughts. Upgrading to 12mm diameter is recommended in this case.<br />
<br />
The part number is important, because the MOD/navy spec rope has a different part starting with AE not AC. The AC type is the sailing rope, whereas the AE is the MOD spec version. To obtain a copy of the technical specification of this rope you will need to contact the MOD, because Marlow are not allowed to release any details of this rope without consent of the MOD, if at all. The technical specification for the AC sailing type of rope is available from Marlow in<br />
the form of a PDF file.<br />
<br />
According to to the technical branch of Marlow Ropes there is no theoretical difference between the two types in terms of their stretch characteristics. The identifiable difference between the ropes is a slight change in colour of the red/orange fleck. AC has a burnt red fleck, and AE has a distinct orange. The AE type of rope is produced to what they call 'British Standard' and is overspec'd in its load characteristics (and is a little larger in diameter), to guarantee that the rope will be consistent from reel to reel, and will not break below a certain load. The heat treatment process is also probably a lot more consistent and thorough; the details of this are apparently contained within the MOD technical specification sheet, which they are not able to release.<br />
<br />
The 10mm AC type of rope has a breaking load of over 2300kg (it could singly carry the dead weight of up to a 46cwt bell) which, in terms of its use in bell ringing, is not remotely approached.<br />
<br />
Since ringing never reaches more than 5\% of the break load of the rope, and there may still be stretch (typically 1\% extension which makes a huge difference) we should look at increasing the spec of the rope to either 12 or 14mm diameter so we never get above say 2 or 3 \% of its total break load and thus 0.5\% or less stretch.<br />
<br />
===Splicing===<br />
Pre-stretched polyester rope can be short-spliced by hand and can also be machine spliced. Theoretically (because of the differing coefficients of friction) it should not be long-spliced with natural fibre rope, but there are several reports of this being achieved successfully in practice.<br />
<br />
<i>David Beacham writes:</i> I have had no trouble at all with joining polyester to flax with a conventional long splice, which you need to do if some part of the rope passes over an intermediate pulley. (If you use a short splice in this situation, you will feel the "bump" as the splice runs over the pulley.)<br />
<br />
<i>Mark Davies writes:</i> I agree with David, I've long-spliced flax to poly without problems, and the splices have lasted many years. When tucking the ends in, you can't "comb out" polyester so well as natural yarn, since the fibres don't come loose. However, you should still use the comb, and tuck in as usual as best you can. If you like, you can trim half the ends of each poly strand in order to get a neater result. On NO ACCOUNT should you heat-seal the ends of the poly strands, as this will not only look unsightly, but also cause the spliced-in natural rope to wear quickly due to friction with the sharp ends of the heated-sealed polyester. Don't even think about it!<br />
<br />
===Fitting Polyester Ropes===<br />
Remember that you do not need to have yards of "spare" rope wound around the spokes. To do so is a waste of money. About three times round would do. If you wish to have more, extend the rope by tying some old rope onto it.<br />
<br />
Natural fibre rope should always be used below the sally.<br />
<br />
===Acknowledgement===<br />
This page is based on a thread on Change-Ringers, May 2005, and summarises contributions from John Harrison, Matthew Higby and Philip Pratt.</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Pre-stretched_Polyester_Ropes&diff=146Pre-stretched Polyester Ropes2008-08-08T09:42:42Z<p>Adamsc: New page: !!Pre-stretched polyester ropes. (Based on a thread on Change-Ringers, May 2005, summarising contributions from John Harrison, Matthew Higby and Philip Pratt). Pre-stretched polyester is...</p>
<hr />
<div>!!Pre-stretched polyester ropes.<br />
<br />
(Based on a thread on Change-Ringers, May 2005, summarising contributions from John Harrison, Matthew Higby and Philip Pratt).<br />
<br />
Pre-stretched polyester is similar to 'Terylene' which is a commercial brand-name. It is a good material for the top end of bell ropes because:<br />
<br />
<br />
* it does not shrink in damp weather<br />
<br />
* it does not go stiff in damp weather<br />
<br />
* it is not springy when new<br />
<br />
* it lasts almost indefinitely<br />
<br />
Two manufacturers supply products which have been used in towers, Marlow and English Braids. The Marlow rope has orange and black tracers in the rope, while the one from English Braids has blue. Marlow rope has been found to be less springy and is preferred by most users.<br />
<br />
!Marlow Rope Specifications<br />
<br />
<br />
Users of Marlow rope have suffered some confusion as the specification has changed at times. A military specification rope, with far less stretch, has similar colour markings to the sailing grade. The sailing grade rope in 10mm diameter is suitable for short ropes (up to about 8m), but displays more spring on long draughts. Upgrading to 12mm diameter is recommended in this case.<br />
<br />
<br />
The part number is important, because the MOD/navy spec rope has a different part starting with AE not AC. The AC type is the sailing rope, whereas the AE is the MOD spec version. To obtain a copy of the technical specification of this rope you will need to contact the MOD, because Marlow are not allowed to release any details of this rope without consent of the MOD, if at all. The technical specification for the AC sailing type of rope is available from Marlow in<br />
the form of a PDF file.<br />
<br />
<br />
According to to the technical branch of Marlow Ropes there is no theoretical difference between the two types in terms of their stretch characteristics. The identifiable difference between the ropes is a slight change in colour of the red/orange fleck. AC has a burnt red fleck, and AE has a distinct orange. The AE type of rope is produced to what they call 'British Standard' and is overspec'd in its load characteristics (and is a little larger in diameter), to guarantee that the rope will be consistent from reel to reel, and will not break below a certain load. The heat treatment process is also probably a lot more consistent and thorough; the details of this are apparently contained within the MOD technical specification sheet, which they are not able to release.<br />
<br />
The 10mm AC type of rope has a breaking load of over 2300kg (it could singly carry the dead weight of up to a 46cwt bell) which, in terms of its use in bell ringing, is not remotely approached.<br />
<br />
<br />
Since ringing never reaches more than 5\% of the break load of the rope, and there may still be stretch (typically 1\% extension which makes a huge difference) we should look at increasing the spec of the rope to either 12 or 14mm diameter so we never get above say 2 or 3 \% of its total break load and thus 0.5\% or less stretch.<br />
<br />
<br />
!Splicing<br />
<br />
Pre-stretched polyester rope can be short-spliced by hand and can also be machine spliced. Theoretically (because of the differing coefficients of friction) it should not be long-spliced with natural fibre rope, but there are several reports of this being achieved successfully in practice.<br />
<br />
<i>David Beacham writes:</i> I have had no trouble at all with joining polyester to flax with a conventional long splice, which you need to do if some part of the rope passes over an intermediate pulley. (If you use a short splice in this situation, you will feel the "bump" as the splice runs over the pulley.)<br />
<br />
<i>Mark Davies writes:</i> I agree with David, I've long-spliced flax to poly without problems, and the splices have lasted many years. When tucking the ends in, you can't "comb out" polyester so well as natural yarn, since the fibres don't come loose. However, you should still use the comb, and tuck in as usual as best you can. If you like, you can trim half the ends of each poly strand in order to get a neater result. On NO ACCOUNT should you heat-seal the ends of the poly strands, as this will not only look unsightly, but also cause the spliced-in natural rope to wear quickly due to friction with the sharp ends of the heated-sealed polyester. Don't even think about it!<br />
<br />
!Fitting Polyester Ropes<br />
<br />
Remember that you do not need to have yards of "spare" rope wound around the spokes. To do so is a waste of money. About three times round would do. If you wish to have more, extend the rope by tying some old rope onto it.<br />
<br />
Natural fibre rope should always be used below the sally.</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=145Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:38:17Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
* [http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=141Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:23:31Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
[http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=140Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:23:14Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
<br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
[http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=137Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:21:05Z<p>Adamsc: OrderAdjustRopes moved to Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes: Improved Title</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
== Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes ==<br />
<br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
[http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=136Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:19:33Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
== Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes ==<br />
<br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
[http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=135Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:19:09Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
== Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes ==<br />
<br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
# Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
# Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
# Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
# Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
# Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
# Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
# In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
# Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
# Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
# Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
* [http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk Ellis Pritchard], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
* Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
[http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm Whitechapel Bell Foundery]- 020 7247 2599<br />
<br />
* --[[User:Adamsc|Adamsc]] 09:19, 8 August 2008 (UTC)</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=134Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:14:45Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
== Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes ==<br />
<br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
#Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
#Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
#Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
#Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
#Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
<br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
#Ensure the bell is down <br />
#Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
#Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
#In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
#Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
#Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
#Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
*[Ellis Pritchard | http://www.ellisandpritchards.co.uk], Loughbrough - 01509 852178<br />
*Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673<br />
*[Whitechapel Bell Foundery | http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/rope.htm]- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=133Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T09:09:44Z<p>Adamsc: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__ <br />
== Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes ==<br />
<br />
===Introduction===<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Ordering Ropes===<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
===Polyester Top Ends===<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
===Changing a Rope===<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
Ensure the bell is down <br />
Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
===Adjusting a Rope===<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
===Tying off at wheel - tip===<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
===Bell Rope Suppliers===<br />
Ellis Pritchard, Loughbrough - 01509 852178 <br />
Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673 <br />
Whitechapel Bell Foundery- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Ordering_and_Adjusting_Bell_Ropes&diff=131Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes2008-08-08T08:57:27Z<p>Adamsc: Page Added</p>
<hr />
<div>== Ordering and Adjusting Bell Ropes ==<br />
<br />
'''Introduction'''<br />
This page provides general information on ropes such as ordering and adjusting them. It also lists suppliers.<br />
<br />
'''Ordering Ropes'''<br />
You will need to tell the manufacturer the following things about each rope that you order:<br />
<br />
Overall Length - Length from the very top to the very bottom of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
Tail-End Length - Length from the bottom of the sally to the end of the rope with the tail-end untucked <br />
Sally Colours - Up to three colours can be choosen <br />
Weight of Bell - Generally bells over 15cwt have thicker ropes <br />
Polyester Top Ends - Whether you require polyester rope to be used above the sally. <br />
The standard sally will usually be 3 foot long, but shorter sallies can be requested.<br />
<br />
Polyester Top Ends<br />
Polyester top ends increase the cost of a rope, but ropes last longer and are not affected by the weather. Click here for further information.<br />
<br />
Changing a Rope<br />
This is a simple way to change a rope:<br />
<br />
Ensure the bell is down <br />
Put a weight (or someone else's foot) on the tail end of the new rope so that the bottom of the sally on the new rope is at the same height as the bottom of the sally of the old rope. <br />
Tie the top of the new rope to the bottom of the old rope with a reef knot <br />
In the belfry, pull up the old rope dragging the new rope behind it <br />
Untie the ropes taking care not to drop the new rope <br />
Pull up the new rope until you feel it pulling against the weight (or foot) and tie it off on the wheel (*see tip) <br />
Adjust the tail end on the new rope to be the same length as the one on the old rope <br />
(New ropes will stretch so it may be advisable to pull them up an extra couple of inches.)<br />
<br />
Adjusting a Rope<br />
With the bell down the rope should be adjusted on the wheel so that the bottom of the sally will be approximately 5'- 8" from the ground when the bell is up. (Ropes on heavier bells will need to be slightly higher.) The tail end should be adjusted so that your average ringers can ring the bell in rounds with 2" to 3" below their hands.<br />
<br />
*Tying off at wheel - tip<br />
A tip I was given is not to use knots at the wheel but after making the first loop around the spoke and then making a few (not too many) loops around both spokes, simply pass the end of the rope down and through the first loop which will then trap the end. Any excess rope can be cut off before threading the remaining rope through the loops to finish. (Tony Lees)<br />
<br />
Be aware that cutting the rope will leave the ends free to unravel. Just tying string around the end or ‘whipping’ will quickly pull off. (Chris Adams)<br />
<br />
Bell Rope Suppliers<br />
Ellis Pritchard, Loughbrough - 01509 852178 <br />
Peter Minchin, Worcester - 01885 490673 <br />
Whitechapel Bell Foundery- 020 7247 2599</div>Adamschttps://wiki.changeringing.co.uk/index.php?title=Row&diff=130Row2008-08-08T08:47:20Z<p>Adamsc: Tittums added</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Definition| A '''Row ''' is a permutation of the bells at a particular [[Stage]].}}<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
Bells are numbered sequentially from the highest to the lowest note being rung, with single characters for bells from 9 to 16 (i.e. 0ETABCD). When writing out rows, each is written on a separate line so that the path of individual bells can be seen by looking down the columns. <br />
<br />
:<tt>123456</tt><br /><br />
:<tt>214365</tt><br /><br />
:<tt>241635</tt><br /><br />
:<tt>426153</tt><br /><br />
:<tt>462513</tt><br /><br />
:<tt>645231</tt><br /><br />
:<tt>654321</tt><br /><br />
==Special Names for Rows==<br />
<br />
* Rounds (down the scale)<br />
** 123456<br />
** 12345678, etc <br />
* Back Rounds (reverse rounds)<br />
** 654321<br />
** 87654321<br />
** 0987654321, etc<br />
* Queens (odds and evens)<br />
** 135246<br />
** 13572468<br />
** 1357924680, etc<br />
* Tittums (alternate front bell, back bell)<br />
** 142536<br />
** 15263748<br />
** 1627384950, etc<br />
* Whittingtons (reverse odds and evens on the back six bells, replicated on the front bells for higher numbers)<br />
** 531246<br />
** 12753468<br />
** 3124975680<br />
** 531246E9780T<br />
[[Category:Terminology]]</div>Adamsc